Santa Croce, a Florentine stronghold, and its surroundings
The mosaic of some of Florence’s finest offerings.
The vibrant Santa Croce neighborhood is named after its icon, the sprawling Franciscan Basilica of Santa Croce, commonly referred to as the “Temple of Italian Glories” for the greats buried there: Michelangelo, Machiavelli and Galileo are just the A-listers!
Home to world-famous fresco cycles by Giotto, an honorary tomb for Dante and a Donatello Annunciation, among other art masterworks, the complex tops the district’s list of must-sees; numerous tours offer the opportunity to see it in depth. But even in the offshooting streets and unassuming corners, there’s much more to experience. Here’s a small sampling.
Art lovers, Renaissance aficionados and anyone interested in 19th and 20th century collecting patterns will get a kick out of the Museo Horne housed in Palazzo Corsi, once home to an Englishman and art enthusiast, Herbert P. Horne (1864-1916).
A Renaissance scholar, Horne was interested in recreating the likeness of a noble Renaissance-era home, reflected in his collecting habits (here you’ll find a range of furniture, intriguing domestic knick-knacks and kitchenware, in addition to a substantial collection of Florentine and Sienese paintings). Firmly off the usual tourist track, but filled with treasures and English-friendly guides, the Horne is a perfect way to spend a horizon-broadening afternoon.
If you were moved by seeing Michelangelo’s tomb in the Basilica, a trip to Casa Buonarroti is a must. Despite its blockbuster star, Michelangelo, giant of the art world and generally considered one of the greatest sculptors of all time, the space is often overlooked by visitors.
Don’t miss the early masterpieces from his youth (two marble reliefs, one of which reflects Donatello’s impact on Michelangelo’s artistry), nor the collection of drawings or mementoes associated with the Buonarroti family. Throughout the year, Casa Buonarroti also often hosts temporary exhibitions linked to Michelangelo and his artistic profile that are well worth your time.
Museum-ed out?
Santa Croce is never short on food and drink options when hunger (or simple culinary curiosity) strike. For something on the upscale side, relish a meal at Guelfi e Ghibellini, found inside the luxurious Relais Santa Croce hotel and vaunting an exclusively seasonal à la carte menu. For something slightly more casual, but still elegant, consider Cucina Torcicoda, a stone’s throw from the basilica, and divided into a pizzeria, osteria and gourmet restaurant. The contemporary ambience is ideal for a relaxing night out, while the menu relies on quality ingredients prepared in innovative ways.
If you happen to be in Florence in June, the neighborhood annually hosts one of the city’s trademark traditions, right in piazza Santa Croce.
Calcio storico fiorentino is a ceremonious and centuries-old combination of rugby, football and wrestling, a notoriously energetic game that plays out among the city’s four historic districts. Two playoff matches happen every June in the lead up to the final on June 24, feast day of John the Baptist, Florence’s patron saint.
Be sure you won’t miss it!